Guye Peak, Snoqualmie Mountain & Cave Ridge (PCT)

Getting There

Take Exit 52 off of I-90 (Snoqualmie Pass West). At the bottom of the exit ramp, turn north and cross under the freeway. In about 100 yards, turn right onto a paved road leading into the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) Trailhead.

NOTE: There is no parking at Sahale Ski Club area—it is private land.

approach & Ascent

Guye Peak/East Route (5,168 ft)

5.0 miles round trip, 2,200 feet of elevation gain, Difficulty: Strenuous 3, Technical 5

Follow the Pacific Crest Trail's (PCT) old route towards Commonwealth Basin to a stream crossing. Continue on the old trail a little further before ascending steeply up southeast slopes of Guye Peak. Traverse from south to the middle and north summits and return via the old trail from Guye-Snoqualmie Saddle through Commonwealth Basin back to the PCT Trailhead. NOTE: The traverse from mid to north summits includes an exposed move that may make non-climbers uncomfortable.

Snoqualmie Mountain, East Peak (6,180 ft)

6.2 miles round trip, 3,200 feet of elevation gain, Difficulty: Strenuous 3, Technical 2

Follow the trail into Commonwealth Basin, then scramble to the notch between Guye Peak and Cave Ridge. From there, head northeast, ascending the valley between Cave Ridge and Snoqualmie Mountain to the ridge at the head of the valley. Then head northwest up the ridge to the prominent East Peak, between Snoqualmie Mountain's highest summit and Lundin Peak. To extend your trip and visit the crowds, continue on to the main summit of Snoqualmie Mountain to the west.

Cave Ridge (5,240 ft)

12. miles round trip, 2,100 feet of elevation gain, Difficulty: Winter Scramble

Alpental to Guye Peak-Cave Ridge Saddle

Follow the Snoqualmie-Guye Trail to the Guye Peak–Cave Ridge saddle.

Pacific Crest Trail Trailhead to Guye Peak-Cave Ridge Saddle

Follow main trail out Commonwealth Basin. Shortly after starting out, take a left turn off new Pacific Crest Trail to head up Commonwealth Basin (NAD27 10 T 619802 5253684, 30°). Follow the trail to log bridge crossing the Commonwealth Creek (10 T 620569 5254781). Continue behind Guye Peak to the saddle joining Guye Peak with Cave Ridge. Stay close to the shoulder of Guye Peak (climbers left), and aim for that side of the saddle (10 T 619892 5255830).

Guye Peak–Cave Ridge Saddle  to Cave ridge "Summit"

Follow the ridge of the saddle up to the west side of Cave Ridge (354°), following the cliff bands to a turning point (10 T 619829 5256319). Here, there is an obvious broad acclivity forming a switchback to gain the summit area. Make a U-turn to the right (149°), and proceed up 200 feet to switchback again to the left (55°). Pass the lower south summit on the right and proceed northwest to the true summit (10 T 620021 5256474).

Guye Peak/South Gully-South Spur (5,168 ft)

2,300 feet of elevation gain, Difficulty: Basic Alpine Climb

APPROACH

From the trailhead head up into Commonwealth Basin, then progress up the southeast side of Guye Peak, remaining mindful to stay on public lands. Be aware the Sahalie Ski Club property is private.

ASCENT ROUTE

Follow the South Gully straight up. A hand line and prussik can be used in a couple of spots for the timid climbers. Lots of trees to fix and anchor. Continue up and north until you come to a chock stone (approximately 4,500 ft). Then traverse right (east) for 50-100 ft then follow the south spur to the summit.

A climber could attempt the chockstone and continue up the same gully, but protection and a belay may be required. Approximately 200 ft above the chockstone you can enter the gully again to gain the south summit. The traverse to the middle summit by going slightly to the east of the ‘middle’ summit down around some obstructing rock.

DESCENT ROUTE

Rappel down the middle summit and scramble across an exposed gully to the base of the North Peak summit. From the bottom of this, there is a scramble gully going up the from there to just north of the north peak. Decend the North Peak to the north. Continue down to the saddle between Guye Peak and Cave Ridge. Continue down around northward until you get to a junction with the Snoqualmie Trail.

EQUIPMENT

Standard rock equipment.

NOTES

• This climb can be done with no pro unless you decide to ascend the chockstone. A rope for a hand line going up some of the exposed sections might be warranted depending on the confidence of the group. Two slings used on the rap. Climbers need a prussik, belay device, and locking carabiner. Strongly recommend helmet be worn once you enter the talus field. Climber induced rock fall is very probable on this route.
• The descent can be made via the Cave Ridge Trail. If this descent route is desired, leave a car at the Alpental parking lot in order to get back to the Commonwealth Trailhead.

Information for LEADERS

Permits

As of 2017, the Snoqualmie Ranger District considers Mountaineers trips and courses to be "nominal use". Leaders should print and copy this designation letter to show rangers they may see on trail.

• Suitable Activities: Scrambling
• Seasons: Year-round
• Weather: View weather forecast

• Difficulty: *Varies*
• Length: 5.0 mi
• Elevation Gain: 2,200 ft
• High Point: 5,168 ft

• Land Manager: Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest
  Alpine Lakes Wilderness, Snoqualmie Ranger District (MBSNF)
• Parking Permit Required: Northwest Forest Pass
• Recommended Party Size: 12
• Maximum Party Size: 12
• Maximum Route/Place Capacity: 12