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Trip Report    

The Fang/The Edge of Time Arete

Fantastic climb in clear conditions, bolted generously for the aspiring 5.9 sport leader.

Isley Gao Isley Gao
June 20, 2024
  • Road suitable for all vehicles

  • Caltopo GPX: https://caltopo.com/m/8Q30A

    Approach is nearly the same as the Tooth, but not as far. Would be a great option if Tooth Fairy is crowded but it is a climb worthy of a trip of its own. Snow conditions haven't changed much since a week ago when I was on a Mountaineers outing to The Tooth. 

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    Just after the start of consistent snow. The Tooth in the background

    Some snow bridges have collapsed, revealing dirt underneath. Didn't really have any situations where we punched through to air. Couple of punch throughs just hit the ground. 

    Snow present over the boulder field after source/snow lake fork and all the way to the base of the route.

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    Approaching the base of the route

Happy 1 year plus 1 day anniversary of the The Edge of Time Arête!

I had been meaning to check out this climb since hearing about it last year (as well as Voie de Chaise on Chair Peak! That's next :D). 

Started at the Snow Lake Trailhead/Alpental parking, hiked up the trail toward Source Lake, diverged toward the boulder field and took out ice axes. Follow the trail toward the Tooth and veer right toward the Fang. 

We saw a Mountaineers group from Foothills chapter along the way. One of them just happened to be our neighbor!

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Mountaineers party making their way to The Tooth

Stashed stuff near the base. We plunged our axes in the snow and clipped our stuff to it to prevent it from rolling down the snow slope. Another party clipped their stuff at the first visible bolt, right by our feet. The snow pack is high enough to obscure the first part of pitch 1. 

This is a super neat route! Pitch 2 is the crux and money pitch. I found it well protected and fun. 

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Starting up pitch 2

Mountain project description for each pitch is useful and accurate. Bolts are spaced very closely, and you'll find one at face height about every other move. Belay stances are generally comfortable. All hardware is in tip top condition since it was recently bolted just last year.

Some loose rock is present on the ledge at the top of pitch 1 and a few jugs here and there on the rest of the route were a little loose. No significant rock fall occurred today with 3 parties on the route including us. 

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Belaying at the top of pitch 4. Above is P5, the Tsunami pitch. Bolt line goes to the right on the face.



Last pitch tops out on The Fang. No scrambling necessary.

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Great views of The Tooth and Mt Rainier from the summit of The Fang

Descent is raps all doable with a 60m rope. Some raps share anchors with the climb, some are their own rap anchors (You can tell the climbing-only anchors by 2 bolts with no chains, shared rap anchors have 2 bolts plus chains). 

Hiked back the way we came. Glissaded a bit and booted the rest. 

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Thank you to Graham Zimmerman, Ian Nicholson, and Tino Villanueva for developing this route! 

Timeline:

6:50am depart TH
7:45 am reach Source Lake fork, hike a little more, couple of small water crossings, then take out ice axes
9:00am reach base of route
12:30pm top out, snack break
2:20pm rapped back to base 
3:30pm back at Source Lake fork
4:30pm back to car

Caltopo GPX: https://caltopo.com/m/8Q30A