Bonanza & Martin Peaks

Getting There

Take the Lady of the Lake boat from Chelan or Fields Point to the town of Lucerne. Take the school bus 13 miles to Holden Village. Camping is available a mile west of Holden Village at the Holden Ballpark Campground (3,300 ft).

Approach

From the campground hike the Railroad Creek Trail ~1 mile to its junction with the Holden Lake Trail (3,600 ft), turn right and hike 4 miles to Holden Lake (5,278 ft). Camp here (it can be buggy) or continue NNW from the head of the lake to good camping at Holden Pass (6,400 ft).

Ascent Route

Bonanza Peak/Mary Green Glacier (9,511 ft)

Intermediate Mountaineering Climb

14 miles round trip, 6,300 feet of elevation gain

From Holden Pass, make a rising traverse west along the ridge until reaching a snowfield below slabs (it may be snow-covered early season).  Scramble up the slabs to the northern edge of the Mary Green Glacier. Beware of potential icefall above.

Rope up and ascend the glacier bearing west along it's north edge (climber's right), then traverse southwest along the base of the Bonanza's northeast ridge until reaching the glacier's upper corner (southwest). From here climb the steep upper snow finger to climber's right until it's highest point and look for a way to exit left onto rock. There may be a moat and an overhanging snow slope here.

Climb the Class 3-4 rock just right of a gully for several rope lengths, then traverse left into another gully and scramble to a prominent notch in the upper northeast ridge just north of the summit (Class 4). Scramble along the loose ridge crest (Class 4) past a series of large blocks. The summit is on the south end of the ridge and resembles a horn (9,511 ft).

Martin Peak/West Ridge (8,511 ft)

Intermediate Mountaineering Climb

14 miles round trip, 5,300 feet of elevation gain

From Holden Pass, ascend east to the base of the west ridge of Martin Peak and gain the ridge crest. Scramble Class 4 rock easterly. There is easier terrain on climber's right (south side) of the ridge. Approximately 100 feet from the summit scramble a steep gully, exposed Class 4, to the summit (8,511 ft).

Descent Route

Bonanza Peak

Retrace the climbing route to the glacier, and the glacier route to the slabs below it. Either descend the slabs or look for a short rappel to the east. Retrace the route to camp.

Martin Peak

Descend the climbing route.

Trip Profile

Bonanza Peak/Mary Green Glacier

Martin Peak/West Ridge

Equipment

Bonanza Peak/Mary Green Glacier

Standard glacier travel gear.

notes

• This trip is best done in 3-4 days because of the transportation.

• Suitable Activities: Climbing
• Climbing Category: Intermediate Alpine
• Seasons: June, July, August
• Weather: View weather forecast

• Difficulty: Intermediate Mountaineering Climb
• Length: 14.0 mi
• Elevation Gain: 6,300 ft
• High Point: 9,511 ft

• Land Manager: Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest
  Glacier Peak Wilderness, Chelan Ranger District (OWNF)
• Parking Permit Required: Northwest Forest Pass
• Recommended Party Size: 12
• Maximum Party Size: 12
• Maximum Route/Place Capacity: 12