Cutthroat Wall

getting there

Drive SR-20 to 4 miles east of Washington Pass, turn west onto Forest Road 400, and continue 1 mile to the Cutthroat Lake Trailhead (4,500 ft).

approach

Hike the old roadbed for a few minutes, ~¼ mile—it runs parallel to Cutthroat Lake Trail—and look for cairns indicating where to turn left and start up hill. Trend climbers right and plan on navigating light brush and trees until reaching a flat area beneath the cliff at ~5,800 ft. 

ascent/Routes

Two routes start on a granite patio about 50 feet apart.  The wall is a "choose-your-own adventure" wall and has multiple variations on each route, similar to South Buttress of Cutthroat Peak. The zebra pitch on Easy Getaway noted in Blake Herrington's guidebook, Cascades Rock, and on the Mountain Project website is a good reference pitch. Easy Getaway (5.10-) is on the left and The Perfect Crime (5.9) is on the right. Climb 6-8 pitches rated between 5.7 and 5.10 up a beautiful looking wall near Cutthroat Lake—now view of the lake from the climb, though.

equipment

• Rack: Wires and doubles from tips to #2 plus a single #3 and single #4 cam.
• Ropes: 60 m (at least two for the rappel).
  

descent

Once on top walk 100-200 feet along ridge until reaching a rappel station. It is a 60 m rappel. Angle rightward on rappel, then contour left around the head of a gully, and circle back clockwise to the base of the climb. 

notes

• Guidebook: Cascades Rock by Blake Harrington (self-published 2016).
• Climbing routes are only a few years old so expect some lichen and loose rock. Zebra corner can seep earlier season.

• Suitable Activities: Climbing
• Climbing Category: Intermediate Alpine
• Seasons: June, July, August, September, October
• Weather: View weather forecast

• Difficulty: Intermediate Rock Climb

• Land Manager: Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forests
  Methow Valley Ranger District (OWNF)
• Parking Permit Required: Northwest Forest Pass
• Recommended Party Size: 4
• Maximum Party Size: 12
• Maximum Route/Place Capacity: 12