Lexington Tower/North Face

getting there

Drive SR-20 to the Blue Lake Trailhead (5,200 ft), 1.5 mi west of the Washington Pass.

Approach

Follow the Blue Lake Trail for roughly two miles, to where it starts to open up. Take a well-established climber's trail on your left, marked by a large cairn. Continue working your way upward to the Concord/Lexington gully. As you get higher in the gully, a decent climber's trail appears on the left side of the gully. The route starts just a couple of feet below the col, at the obvious slanting crack.

ascent route

The first pitch (120 feet) begins with the awkward 5.7 crux right off the ground. Follow the right-leaning crack for 15-20 feet until easier ground leads you to fun 5.6 stemming through a chimney. Above the chimney, find a belay at an established rap station to the right, or continue a little higher to sling a large block on a comfortable ledge.

The second pitch (80 feet) starts straight up through easy but somewhat dirty and vegetated climbing, and then trends to the left around a large overhanging face. A short 5.7 move gets you around the corner to easier ground. Follow easy slabs and ramps to a nice belay near the notch.

The third pitch (80 feet) is mostly easy but exposed Class 4. Cross over to the south side through the notch, and traverse  below the crest until you reach the summit. Leave your pieces in, and re-clip them on the descent, as it is easier to downclimb this pitch rather than rappel.

Descent

Downclimb Pitch 3 back to the belay at the notch. A nice, straightforward single-rope rappel gets you back to the first rap station, and another single rappel gets you back to the col.

TRIP PROFILE

Equipment

Standard alpine rack to 3 inches, 60m rope, ice ax and crampons in early season.

Notes

• This is a fairly short climb that is easy to bail off of, making it a good choice for a small weather window.
• The rock quality is generally quite solid and the whole route is well-protected.
• This climb can be combined with Concord Tower/South Face using the same approach gully or Concord Tower/North Face by climbing it and then rappeling off its south side into the Concord/Lexington Col.

• Suitable Activities: Climbing
• Climbing Category: Intermediate Alpine
• Seasons: May, June, July, August, September, October
• Weather: View weather forecast

• Difficulty: Intermediate Rock Climb
• Length: 4.0 mi
• Elevation Gain: 2,360 ft
• High Point: 7,560 ft

• Land Manager: Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forests
  Methow Valley Ranger District (OWNF)
• Parking Permit Required: Northwest Forest Pass
• Recommended Party Size: 12
• Maximum Party Size: 12
• Maximum Route/Place Capacity: 12