Mount Garibaldi/Diamond Head

getting there

Drive north on I-5 to the Canadian boarder to Trans-Canadian Highway 1. Head west on the Trans-Canadian Highway. Take the BC-99 exit to Squamish. By-pass Squamish and cross the Mamquam River. In ~0.25 miles after the bridge, turn right on Mamquam Road. Follow this steep, rough road 9 miles to the parking lot (3,234 ft, 980m).

Approach

Follow the rough road/trail 7.5 mi (12 km) to Diamond Head and Elfin Lakes. Camping is available in the meadows below the chalet at Diamond Head. Bunks (no mattresses) and propane stoves are available at the chalet and may be reserved.

Ascent

Climb NNW to the saddle at 5,875 ft (1,780 m) between Columnar Peak and the Gargoyles. Descend 400 ft (120 m) north to a saddle. Ascend a broad ridge north toward Diamond Head to about 6,100 ft (1,850 m), then contour NNE to a ridge that drops steeply on the northeast side to the Diamond Glacier (ridge may be corniced). Find a way down to the glacier and ascend north toward Atwell Peak. Cross over the East Ridge of Atwell Peak at about 7,300 ft (2,215 m). Continue north and then west on the Bishop Glacier to gain the broad saddle between Atwell Peak and Garibaldi. Then continue north between Dalton Dome and Garabaldi to the summit gully on Garabaldi. Start the ascent of the summit tower about 40 ft left of the gully and traverse up and right.

Alternate Route: Approach from Alice Ridge Road. Join the climbing route above the saddle at head of Mashiter creek.

Descent

Descend the climbing route.

Trip Profile

Equipment

Standard glacier equipment and helmet.

Notes

• Guidebook: Alpine Select: Climbs in Southwest British Columbia & Northwest Washington by Kevin McLane (High Col Press 2001).
• Guidebook: Exploring the Coast Mountains on Skis, 3rd ed. by John Baldwin (John Baldwin 2009).
• View the Canadian Avalanche Forecast for the Sea-to-Sky Area.
• The rock on Garibaldi is extremely rotten. Be aware of rockfall at all times, especially under Diamond Head and Atwell Peak.
• A handline may be required in the final gully, but may need hardware to put in. Large blocks cannot be trusted. Climbers should ascend in groups of 2-3.
• Plan this climb over a long weekend because of the driving time and length of climb.
• Trailhead theft is a severe problem in this area.
• Elevations are given in feet and meters in this description. Canadian maps show contours in meters, configure your altimeter appropriately.
• Be aware that changes in glaciation have occurred on this route: leaders should consult rangers and other parties who have done it, to ensure that this route is feasible.

information for leaders

Considerations for travel to Canada

• Start by reviewing the latest regulations. Look for information on border crossing and travel to Canada on these websites:
  
  • U.S. Customs and Border Protection
  • U.S. Department of Homeland Security
  • WSDOT (Washington State Department of Transportation)
  • Government of Canada
• Everyone must have a passport or other valid ID like a NEXUS card.
• NEXUS cards can save a lot of time but only work if everyone in the car has one.
• Make sure your vehicle insurance is valid for Canada.
• Make sure your health insurance is valid for Canada.
• Border crossing regulations are strict in both directions. Know what you’re allowed to take and declare everything to avoid problems.
• You may be able to save time by checking alternate border crossings.
• See the Travel Industry Council of Ontario's 9 Travel Tips for Crossing the Canadian/U.S. Land Border blog post for some good tips on traveling to Canada.

• Suitable Activities: Backcountry Skiing, Climbing
• Climbing Category: Basic Alpine
• Seasons: Year-round
• Weather: View weather forecast

• Difficulty: Basic Glacier Climb, M2G Advanced Glacier Ski
• Length: 23.0 mi
• Elevation Gain: 5,500 ft
• High Point: 8,827 ft

• Land Manager: Garibaldi Provincial Park
• Parking Permit Required: see Land Manager
• Recommended Party Size: 12
• Maximum Party Size: 12
• Maximum Route/Place Capacity: 12