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Inspiration Peak/South Face


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Inspiration Peak/South Face

Located in the Southern Picket Range in North Cascades National Park, this route follows a ramp system and then finishes by a "Great Gash" in the upper part of the face. It's a Grade III, 5.8 rock climb.

getting there

Drive SR-20 to Newhalem. On the west edge of town turn north following signs of "WA DOT maintenance yard." Almost immediately turn left and in a couple hundred feet stay right at a fork following signs for a group campground (at end of road). Before the campground, a fraction of a mile from fork, look for a 30 yard long pull-out fork on the right and park there.

APPROACH

Hike the Goodell Creek Trail for 4.5 miles then look for a climbers boot path on your right. The boot path is hard to follow so route finding skills here are needed. The path travels north and slightly east until you hit a high saddle at ~6,000 ft. Descend this broad but steep gully and find a camp spot below. From camp traverse north/northwest gently losing elevation in order to drop low enough to cross a drainage from a small tarn just southeast of McMillan Spires. Beyond the drainage ascend slabs and snow slopes heading northwest toward the edge of Terror Glacier.

ASCENT

The south face can be accessed from a couple points on the glacier, just be careful around the moat. Expect a bit of low 5th class climbing then some third and fourth class climbing before reaching the ramp system with the 400-foot, left-facing corner, known as the "Great Gash." Climb the gash (5.8) to a chimney and continue up the right side of the chimney (5.7-5.8) until reaching the upper section of the West Ridge. Then climb the remainder of the West Ridge to the summit.

DESCENT

The most straight-forward descent is down the West Ridge.

equipment

Standard glacier gear. Rock pro to 2.5 inches.

  • Suitable Activities: Climbing
  • Climbing Category: Intermediate Alpine
  • Seasons: June, July, August, September
  • Weather: View weather forecast
  • Difficulty: Intermediate Rock Climb
  • Length: 16.0 None
  • Elevation Gain: 7,500 ft
  • 7,880 ft
  • Land Manager: North Cascades National Park
  • Parking Permit Required: None
  • Recommended Party Size: 6
  • Maximum Party Size: 6
  • Maximum Route/Place Capacity: 6
Map
  • USGS Mt Challenger
  • Trails Illustrated North Cascades National Park
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