Mount Rainier/Fuhrer Finger

getting there

From SR-7 in Elbe, turn east onto SR-706, both known as the National Park Highway. Continue through the Nisqually Entrance of Mount Rainier National Park. Be prepared to pay the fee just after entering the park. Drive 19 miles to Paradise.

In winter, ALL drivers in the park are required to carry snow chains or equivalent traction devices—this includes those with a 4-wheel or  all-wheel drive vehicle. Those without a 4-wheel or all-wheel drive vehicle may be required to install them at Longmire or beyond.

APPROACH

Hike to the Nisqually Moraine Trail and descend to the Nisqually Glacier. Cross the Nisqually at approximately 6,200 ft and ascend Wilson Gully on the opposite (west) side of the glacier. Beware of rockfall potential in Wilson Gully. Follow Wilson glacier along the left edge to about 9,000 ft, then cut across to the right towards the cleaver between Wilson and Nisqually glaciers. There is a good campsite at 9,500 ft. Some parties have made camp at 10,000 ft but had to dig platforms.

ASCENT ROUTE

Fuhrer Finger

Climb directly up the finger toward the junction with the upper Nisqually Glacier. Watch for rockfall. Continue up the slopes to the top of Wapowety Cleaver at 13,000 ft, staying left near the cleaver. Climb levels out here, but you may have to negotiate crevasses.

Fuhrer Thumb

Head toward the finger, and climb the narrow couloir between the Wilson Glacier Headwall and Fuhrer Finger to 11,500 ft. Climb out of the couloir onto Fuhrer Finger to avoid the cliffs at the top of the couloir. Continue to the summit following the remainder of the Fuhrer route.

DESCENT ROUTE

Descend the climbing route or carryover and descend the Disappointment Cleaver route.

TRIP PROFILE

EQUIPMENT

Standard glacier gear, pickets, and/or flukes.

NOTES

• As one of the shortest routes on Rainier, a very fast party can climb it in one day from Paradise.
• Under good snow conditions, this route offers good moderate-angles snow climbing.

INFORMATION FOR LEADERS

PERMITS

A climbing permit is required for trips on glaciers and/or above 10,000 ft. Fees apply. Check with Mount Rainier National Park (land manger link below) to be sure you have the required camping and climbing permits.

• Suitable Activities: Climbing
• Climbing Category: Intermediate Alpine
• Seasons: May, June, July
• Weather: View weather forecast

• Difficulty: Intermediate Mountaineering Climb
• Elevation Gain: 10,000 ft
• High Point: 14,411 ft

• Land Manager: Mount Rainier National Park
  Mount Rainier Wilderness
• Parking Permit Required: National Park Entrance Fee
• Recommended Party Size: 12
• Maximum Party Size: 12
• Maximum Route/Place Capacity: 12