Phyllis' Engine

Approach from the west side and scramble up to the base of a corner on the climber's right side of the tallest smoke stack (the summit). This is the beginning of pitch 1. Climb up a short corner to a ledge and then up a second corner with a BD #4 sized crack at your right and finger/ring locks on your left. Exit either climber's right to a rappel station or climber's left along a loose slab to a separate rappel station. Note that the station at climber's left will be easier to belay from, but is trickier to exit out of from P1.

P2 starts roughly below the rappel station at climber's left. Mantle up to a ledge and then pick from a an off-width chimney at climber's right, a wavy offset hand to finger sized crack directly above the station or hands to off-width crack at climber's left. Climb until just below the head wall of the summit block and setup a gear anchor.

P3 goes around the summit head wall at climber's right. Step out onto an exposed ledge and then up a short, but vertical fist-sized crack to flat edge. There is also a hand-sized crack running in parallel just climber's right. Pull up of the edge and up low angle slab to reach the summit block. Mantle the summit boulder at the top once you're second is up.

• Suitable Activities: Climbing
• Climbing Category: Intermediate Alpine
• Seasons: June, July, August, September
• Weather: View weather forecast
• Avalanche Terrain Rating Complex

• Difficulty: 5.8
• Length: 30.0 mi
• Elevation Gain: 7,900 ft
• High Point: 8,258 ft

• Land Manager: Garibaldi Provincial Park
• Parking Permit Required: see Land Manager
• Recommended Party Size: 12
• Maximum Party Size: 12
• Maximum Route/Place Capacity: 12