Seward Peak

GETTING THERE

From the SR-542 (Mt Baker Highway) and SR-9 roundabout junction, continue east on SR-542 for 2.3 miles. Turn right onto Mosquito Lake Road, drive 4.8 miles, and turn left on Middle Fork Road. Drive 9 miles and turn left onto Forest Road 38. Drive far as road conditions allow. There is limited parking (1-3 cars) typically found at switchbacks. The road is heavily washed out at 3,000 ft and is unpassable by most vehicles.

APPROACH & Ascent

Hike Forest Road 38 to 3,700 ft. Follow a climbers trail or bushwhack north to gain a ridge at ~4,400 ft. Follow the the path on the ridge until it peters out at ~5,600 ft. Follow the path of least resistance in a generally northeast direction towards the west flank of Seward Peak. Near 7,300 ft look southeast for a short gully with access to the Black Butte ridge line. Ascend the dirty gully, with the option to go through a squeeze tunnel if following the gully proper. Some climbers may choose to rope up for the gully. Gain the ridge and follow it north along Class 2 terrain to the summit.

DescENT

Rappel the gully and retrace your steps.

NOTES

• This route sees little traffic and consequently the gully is full of loose rock.
• Water is typically available at multiple locations between a tarn at 5,800 ft and Seward Peak.
• Spring snow may provide a convenient snow ramp through the gully. Alpine ice may be a concern late season for the approach to the gully.
• This route description differs from the one in Fred Beckey's in Cascade Alpine Guide, Vol. 3.

• Suitable Activities: Climbing
• Climbing Category: Basic Alpine
• Seasons: May, June, July, August, September
• Weather: View weather forecast

• Difficulty: Basic Alpine Climb
• Length: 13.0 None
• Elevation Gain: 5,500 ft
• High Point: 8,005 ft

• Land Manager: Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest
  Mount Baker Wilderness, Mount Baker Ranger District (MBSNF)
• Parking Permit Required: None
• Recommended Party Size: 12
• Maximum Party Size: 12
• Maximum Route/Place Capacity: 12