Slesse Mountain/Northeast Buttress

This climb involves climbing on one side of the mountain and descending on the other side so a car shuttle is preferred unless you can swing a helicopter pick up.

APPROACH

Take Canada Highway 1 to the Chilliwack-Sardis Exit. Follow signs to Sardis on Vedder Road. In approximately 5 miles turn onto Chilliwack Road and continue 13.2 to Slesse Creek Road. Turn right (south) onto Slesse Creek Road. At 4.2 miles turn left and follow the logging road on the east side of the creek. At 6.8 miles from the Chilliwack River Road, look for small creek next to Slesse Mountain Trail and park a car.

Car 2 should drive 6 miles south on Chilliwack River Road to Centre Creek/Nesakwatch Road. This road which begins at Riverside Campground crosses the Chilliwack River then forks 100 yards later. Take the right fork to Nesakwatch Creek and Slesse Mountain, drive 2.5 miles to the gate and park.

ASCENT

This climb consists of snow or glacier travel to reach the base of the climb, and then 25 pitches of rock climbing on three distinct sections of the mountain.   There are a few variations. Selected Climbs in the Cascades, Vol 1 and Cascade Alpine Guide, Vol 3 (below) contains a  detailed route description, photos and climbing topos with the variations.

DESCENT

From the true summit walk south for several hundred feet turning slightly west of the crest until able to rappel toward a gully identified by a slender horn of rock.

• Suitable Activities: Climbing
• Seasons: June, July, August, September
• Weather: View weather forecast

• Difficulty: Intermediate Rock Climb
• Elevation Gain: 5,200 ft
• High Point: 7,850 ft

• Land Manager: Land Manager Varies
• Parking Permit Required: see Land Manager
• Recommended Party Size: 12
• Maximum Party Size: 12
• Maximum Route/Place Capacity: 12