Banshee Peak & Cowlitz Chimneys

getting there

From SR-410 in Mount Rainier National Park, take Sunrise Road until it meets  White River Road. Go straight on the White River Road towards the White River Campground. The trailhead parking area (3,900 ft) is located just past the bridge over Fryingpan Creek. There are no facilities at the trailhead.

approach & Ascent

banshee peak (7,404 ft)

14 miles round trip, 3,600 feet of elevation gain

Hike the trail to the meadow at Summerland (5,900 ft) and continue on to Panhandle Gap at (6,720 ft). Contour easterly, following a broad ridge up to highest point on Banshee Peak (7,404 ft).

Main Cowlitz Chimney (7,605 ft)

17 miles round trip, 4,800 feet of elevation gain, difficulty: Basic Alpine Climb

Hike the trail to the meadow at Summerland (5,900 ft) and continue on to Panhandle Gap at (6,720 ft). Go left on boot trail to the saddle and follow the ridge up the broad south slope of Banshee Peak. From a saddle at 7000 ft drop into the basin. At 6735 ft travel southeast past a U-shaped gully and ascend to a solitary fir tree. From here, ascend about 30–50 feet and then  traverse back toward the gully (Class 3). Continue traversing along a ledge (Class 3) to a tree where just above is a short slanted chimney with a chockstone at its top. Climb the chimney to the ridge. Continue on a moderate rising traverse across the U-shaped gully. You'll find solid rock with some scree. The you find a narrow slotted gully that leads to the peak. After the slot, the gully widens, and near the top, multiple gullies lead towards the summit. Ascend the easy (Class 2) gully with a snag near its top.

Central Cowlitz Chimney (7,421 ft)

16 miles round trip, 3,900 feet of elevation gain, difficulty: Strenuous 3, technical 2

Hike the trail to the meadow at Summerland (5,900 ft) and continue on to Panhandle Gap at (6,720 ft).

• Because of loose rock on summit block, we recommend taking a small party of experienced scramblers only.

notes

• Snow at Panhandle Gap may be icy and require crampons.
• This area has beautiful heather and alpine vegetation so tread lightly travel on rocks and snow where possible.

• Suitable Activities: Climbing
• Climbing Category: Basic Alpine
• Seasons: July, August, September
• Weather: View weather forecast

• Difficulty: Basic Alpine Climb
• Length: 17.0 mi
• Elevation Gain: 4,800 ft
• High Point: 7,605 ft

• Land Manager: Mount Rainier National Park
• Parking Permit Required: National Park Entrance Fee
• Recommended Party Size: 12
• Maximum Party Size: 12
• Maximum Route/Place Capacity: 12