The Fang/The Edge of Time Arete

GETTING THERE

Take Exit 52 off of I-90 at Snoqualmie Pass, and turn northwest onto Alpental Road and follow it to the Alpental parking area (3,100 ft).

APPROACH

The route more or less climbs the Arete that ascends 2/3s of the peak straight to the summit of the Fang. "Rising Tide Ledge" atop the first pitch can be seen from the entrance to Pineapple Basin basin and the first pitch begins straight down from where Rising Tide Ledge becomes flat. Look for some blocky white rock that helps mark the start of the climb. 

ASCENT

Pitch 1 (5.6) The pitch starts in some broken, blocky white rock that is far better than it looks. Once past the white rock, the angle lessens but remains fairly sustained with balancy 5.6 edging to "Rising Tide Ledge" - 7 bolts, 70ft. The name; "Rising Tide Ledge" comes from the fact that the first pitch grew by 30ft due to the snow melting between the first day the First Ascent team began working on the route in early May and when they finished in Early June. 

Pitch 2 (5.9+/5.10a) The crux pitch; leave Rising Tide Ledge and step to the right of the belay and climb a few steep feeling moves that lead to a stem box chimney. Exit the chimney on the right where it shifts into a corner; the crux is two steep bulges in the corner. The first involves a few bigger and more committing reaches to good holds and the second requires some technical stemming and laybacking. 105ft 13-14 bolts

Pitch 3 (5.9-) Climb right and step around the corner (a couple 5.9 moves as you step around the arete before quickly easing) and climb the face just to the right of the Arete, 40ft, 4 bolts, While this pitch is short, it is best not to link it with the pitch before or after it, and it is recommended to break it up in this fashion. 

Pitch 4 (5.8) Excellent sustained edging right on the Arete or just right of it. 105ft This anchor does not have chains on it, but you can see the rap anchor just down below the stance at the top of this pitch. 

Pitch 5 (5.9) We named the pitch "Tsnaumi" as the majority of the pitch overhangs the belay stance with the striking arete appearing to be a wave rising up about to crash on the belayer (though the climbing is not overhanging). Climb up to where the arete and steepens again. Clip the bolt and traverse low and onto the right side of the arete. Climb fantastic sustained edging on a vertical face that ascends the arete to a point where the leading climber overhangs the belay below - 95ft 12 bolts.

Pitch 6 (5.3) Climb up the Arete, which drops in angle significantly. 70ft. Stop at the first set of anchors that don't have chains and are on a nice, large ledge. Do not climb up to the second set of anchors roughly 20ft above that do have chains that are part of the next pitch. 

Pitch 7 (5.7) Climb some easier blocky terrain up to the first bolt, which is also the second rappel anchor that will be reached when rappelling off the top. From the rap anchor/first bolt, step left around the corner and into a short "V" groove that then quickly rejoins the Arete then the rest of the pitch ascends just right of the Arete to the summit. 10-11 bolts 115ft.  Take advantage of enjoying the exposure on the mini "notch" just before the top of this pitch, 

DESCENT

• From the summit rap down to the station you passed on the final pitch ~90-95ft
• For the second rappel, go over a ledge to the climber's right of the route and the Pitch 6 anchors. Once on that face, trend slightly left to bolts and chains in the middle in the face 90-95ft
• Make another rappel 95ft to bolts and chains that were just below the Pitch 4 anchors. Poor stance.
• Rap from these to the top of Pitch 3 Look for the thin flakes to that will be your foot ledges on the way in. This flakes can be rope catchers so give a pull toward the anchors as the rope comes through the chains to help avoid them getting stuck. 
• From Pitch 3 to Pitch 2 (the short pitch) Do not reverse the climbing route, instead rappel straight down from the Pitch 3 anchors down a gully-like feature to the top of Pitch 2 (look for the ledge with the chains on your right). Do not continue rappelling down the face to the climbers right of the arete. 
• From Pitch 2 rappel straight down (and not follow the climbing route) to the climber's left of the nose/prow feature that the rappel anchor ledge is above. 
• Final rappel straight down to the base of the route. 

EQUIPMENT

13-14 quickdraw and a 60m rope

• Suitable Activities: Climbing
• Climbing Category: Intermediate Alpine
• Seasons: June, July, August, September, October
• Weather: View weather forecast

• Difficulty: Intermediate Rock Climb
• Length: 6.0 mi
• Elevation Gain: 2,500 ft

• Land Manager: Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest
  Alpine Lakes Wilderness, Snoqualmie Ranger District (MBSNF)
• Parking Permit Required: Northwest Forest Pass
• Recommended Party Size: 2
• Maximum Party Size: 12
• Maximum Route/Place Capacity: 12