Tupshin & Devore Peaks
Climb two of Washington's 100 highest peaks in a remote area of the Gacier Peak Wilderness and North Cascades. This is a multi-day trip with some added logistics getting to Stehekin and interesting route-finding and off-trail travel.
Getting There
Drive to Chelan or Fields Point Landing and catch the Lady of the Lake ferry (or find alternative commercial transportation) to Stehekin. From Stehekin find transportation to the Weaver Point Campground (motorboat or bus, or hoof it).
APPROACH
From the Weaver Point Campground hike on the Devore Creek Trail about 4 miles to Bird Creek Campground (4,200 ft). You may camp here or hike offtrail approximately one mile into a basin at 5,400 ft along Bird Creek (follow the creek on the north side).
ASCENT ROUTE
Tupshin Peak
From the basin at 5,400 ft head northeast making a rising traverse until you enter a second drainage around 5,800 ft. Ascend this drainage to 7,600 ft. Scramble up the face to the summit, routefinding carefully to find the easiest way up (Class 4 with a few Class 5 moves).
Devore Peak
From the basin at 5,400 ft continue along Bird Creek until you reach a large open basin near lakes around 7,000 ft. Cross Bird Creek at the northern lake and hike SE, ascending to a col at about 7,500 ft in Devore's southeast ridge. From the col head west and scramble to the summit (Class 3-4).
DESCENT ROUTE
For each peak descend the climbing route using a mix of rappels and downclimbing. Return to camp.
TRIP PROFILE
SEGMENT | TIME (HR) | ELEVATION GAIN (FT) |
---|---|---|
Trailhead to Camp | 5-6 | 4200 |
Camp to Tupshin | 5-6 | 3000 |
Tupshin to Camp | 4-5 | -3000 |
Camp to Devore | 4-5 | 3000 |
Devore to Camp | 3-4 | -3000 |
Camp to Trailhead | 4-5 | -4200 |
EQUIPMENT
Standard rock climbing gear. Light rack.
notes
- Guidebook: Summit Routes: Washington's 100 Highest Peaks by Scott Stephenson and Brian Bongiovanni (Alpenbooks Press 2004).
- Suitable Activities: Climbing
- Climbing Category: Basic Alpine
- Seasons: June, July, August, September, October
- Weather: View weather forecast
- Difficulty: Basic Alpine Climb
- Length: 22.0 mi
- Elevation Gain: 10,000 ft
- 8,360 ft
-
Land Manager:
Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forests
Chelan Ranger District (OWNF)
- Parking Permit Required: Northwest Forest Pass
- Recommended Party Size: 4
- Maximum Party Size: 12
- Maximum Route/Place Capacity: 12
- USGS Stehekin
- USGS Mt Lyall
- Green Trails Stehekin No. 82
- Trails Illustrated North Cascades National Park
- Trails Illustrated Glacier Peak Wilderness
- Green Trails North Cascades Lake Chelan No. 114SX
Name/Description |
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Mountaineers Beta & Brews: Less Traveled Basic Alpine Routes A link to the YouTube video of The Mountaineers Beta & Brews: Less Traveled Basic Alpine Routes presented May 26, 2020. The Tupshin & Devore segment by Stephen Bobick begins at 30:30. |