Alpine Scramble - Kaleetan Peak/South Ridge

This was a scramble of Kaleetan Peak via the South ridge  on 06/22/2024

Party size: 5

Conditions: T4 snow, T4 rock

Trip Stats (from gps track taken): 13 miles, 5000’ gain

Gear used: mountaineering boots, ice axes, crampons, helmets

 Started Hiking 7:50 AM

We brought sandals and poles in case they were needed for stream crossing(s). The potentially tricky crossing had a log foot bridge in place, so we did not need the sandals. Poles were useful for the smaller stream crossings on the way to Melakwa Lake.

There was significant snow covering the trail before reaching Melakwa Lake, but nothing that required an ice axe. We arrived at Melakwa Lake at 10:20 AM and took a longer break here. No bugs (yet).

The two steep steps in the boot path above the Melakwa Lake were snow free and dry. There was snow on the ridge starting at about 5600’. The route descends climbers left side of the ridge just north of point 5700’. It was about 12:10 PM when we put on crampons on to descend this steep snow.

We then traversed on snow and crossed two talus bands. Upon returning to rock, we took off crampons and followed the rocky ridge on climbers right along trees and among patches of snow to the base of the summit gulley. We traversed across the top of the snow (from climbers left to right), using the protection of the moat to gain access to the summit gulley, which was snow free. We stowed our ice axes on our packs and scrambled to the summit, arriving just after 2 PM. We spent about 30 minutes on the summit enjoying the views and sunbreaks. We searched around for a summit register but did not find one.

 We arrived back at Melakwa Lake around 5:30 PM and took a break here to get water. There were enough bugs at the lake that we did not linger.

8:10 PM – arrived back at the trailhead parking area.