Backpack Across Patagonia's Tierra del Fuego

The backpacking route started at Estancia Carmen (-54.39355, -67.88865) about a 3 hour drive north and east from Ushuaia.  From here the route followed some trail and some off-trail steep bouldery sections (occasional use of hands) south to Lago Fagnano.   The weather was very changeable and it rained solid through day 2, making it sometimes difficult to find the trail.  Lots of creek crossings.  The second night the group started out at a camp beside Lago Fagnano but a boat shuttle was arranged that night to the cabin on the opposite shore where everyone was able to spend 2 nights with great food, great company and warm conditions to dry out gear and raise spirits.  (One person decided to go back to Ushuaia from here but it is a complicated transport situation so  some hours of waiting were involved for it to happen.)

Day 4 of the backpack ascended into the Five Lagoons valley to Laguna Capullo, with some trail but also a lot of boulder and rock hopping and pushing through a tangle of Lenga trees.   Rugged but fairly easy to follow.  The lakes are gorgeous and plenty of view-rich tent spots were found.

Day 5 climbed up out of the Five Lagoons valley and then descended over Paso Beban and down valley of Rio Beban, mostly on trails, to a wild camp.    Rain came and went every day but there was also blue sky and amazing views!

On day 6 the group descended down the Beban valley to a small but very welcome warming dome - not large enough to sleep in but big enough to stay dry and eat in warmer conditions. 

On day 7 the group was able to leave their gear at the warming dome and hiked up to Laguna Esmeralda with its hanging glacier far above it, going back down to spend the night by the dome. 

On day 8  day hiked up to and past Cinco Hermanos lake and down to a road, where they were picked up, taken back to the warming dome where they packed up their gear and were taken back to Usuhaia.

On day 9 the group took a guided full-day tour to a couple of penguin rookeries in the Beagle Channel out of Ushuaia.  Well worthwhile!

The guides provided by the outfitter were great, but the tents that were provided were leaky, heavy and not the 4-season tents that had been requested.   Porters had not been hired for this trip but it is HIGHLY recommended for future trips despite the cost because the terrain is very rocky and can be very slippery so heavy packs contributed to two of the participants getting sprains that led them to decide to exit early.  It was a great idea to have food come in to resupply every 3 days to reduce the weight of packs.  Participants need to be experienced backpackers who have been intensively vetted for confidence on rugged steep terrain and gear/fortitude to handle wet cold weather for multiple days.

A photo journal from the route can be found here, and a folder (thanks to Donna Hahn!) of the  final tracks actually followed can be found here.