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Basic Alpine Climb - Silver Star Mountain/Silver Star Glacier

Route is pretty much snow free all the way to Burgundy Col.

Carolyn Graham Carolyn Graham
June 27, 2017
  • Road suitable for all vehicles

  • There were over 20 vehicles parked at the MP 166 pullout when we arrived Saturday. Route is pretty much snow free all the way to Burgundy Col. Patchy snow  at 6500' bench where we camped. Many people climbed Silver Star on Saturday and many more climbed Sunday. Climb groups were pretty spread out, so no bottle necks.

Party Size: 6 (2 rope leads, 4 students)

Gear: 2x40m ropes, 4 pickets, crampons, ice axes

Gear Used: ropes, crampons, ice axes, helmets

 

Weather: 14k+ freezing levels Saturday and even warmer Sunday. 90's in Seattle.

 

Day 1:

Ash Way P&R: 8 AM

Departed MP 166 Pullout: 12:15 PM

Found suitable log crossing that we could walk or crawl across. Ascended climber's trail very slowly with several long breaks due to very warm conditions.

Arrived at 6500' Bench:  5:15 PM

Set up tents, then 3 of us traversed south to fill up water bottles and water bags for everyone at the creek.

 

Day 2:

Departed Camp: 5 AM

Arrived at Burgundy Col: 7 AM

Descended Burgundy Col and roped up for glacier travel. Did not observe any crevasses. Easily avoided some moats opening up near rock outcrops.

Summit: 10:30 AM

Rappelled from summit using one 40m rope.

Camp: 3 PM

Pack up and get water: 3-4 PM

Creek was running much higher today. Log we used on the way in was partially submerged. Crossed via butt scoot method on a large (18"+ diameter) smooth log about 100 yards downstream.

Cars: 7:15 PM