Trip Report
Basic Glacier Climb - Russell Glacier, Ptarmigan Ridge
A great one day basic glacier climb in a stunning setting, complete with ice calving on the nearby Willis Wall. A long (and strenuous) day, made a bit longer with the shorter days, yet compensated by our solitary time above Observation Rock.
Dave Morgan
- Sat, Sep 21, 2024
- Basic Glacier Climb - Observation Rock
- Echo Rock, Observation Rock & Tillicum Point
- Climbing
- Successful
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- Road suitable for all vehicles
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Great conditions on the climb, made especially so by interesting late season ice conditions. Less desirable due to the lengthy and legendary potholes on the Mowich Lake road.
Our original plan was to achieve the 10300’ bump on Ptarmigan Ridge (plan A). Unfortunately the shorter day (plus extra time needed to safely transit talus islands in crampons) forced us to fallback to our plan B destination, a 9200’ notch.
Our first sight of mountains, plus master-crafted flagstones to reduce meadow damage…
By Nina Crampton
Late season Observation Rock, with its much used ice climb a shadow of its former self.
By Dave Morgan
Our first glimpse of the Flett and Russell Glaciers, yet negotiating many talus islands in crampons (as yet unseen) would delay our progress onto the Russell Glacier.
By Nathan GH
The Flett Glacier…
By Nina Crampton
… complete with surface streams.
By Nina Crampton
Nathan’s sharp eye (and ears) allowed him to quickly identify ice calving above Willis Wall which led to our capturing this video.
By Nina Crampton
Moving out onto the Russell Glacier…
By Nina Crampton
… with some interesting ice formations.
By Nina Crampton
Finally above Observation Rock.
By Dave Morgan
Plan A is above and on the left, with its 10300’ destination highlighted by the shaded backdrop of Liberty Ridge.
By Dave Morgan
Time waits for no person, and at 2pm we opt for Plan B, the 9200’ notch in Ptarmigan Ridge.
By Dave Morgan
A well deserved break at the notch…
By Rose Gear
… with some stunning views to the west.
By Rose Gear
A magical plateau below with meadows, lakes, and many waterfalls. Although this area can be approached via the ridge that starts near the confluence of the North and South Mowich Rivers (as we did in this trip)…
By Dave Morgan
… it is quite challenging from a brush perspective. You can see our 9200’ notch in the distance from this photo taken from that ‘magical plateau’ in July 2011.
By Dave Morgan
Time to head home. The Plan A talus ridge (with a fresh dusting of snow) leading to Point 10300 looks quite reasonable for a future trip.
By Dave Morgan
Almost off the Russell Glacier.
By Nina Crampton
A pleasant stroll on the ice with Echo Rock in the background…
By Nina Crampton
… and after quickly pumping some water…
By Dave Morgan
… settled in for the hike back to Mowich Lake (with lots of great conversations to keep us company ;).
By Justine Park
A wonderful day in the mountains (especially so after arriving at Mowich Lake just as the last rays of sun departed ;) on this strenuous glacier climb of 15 miles and 5000’ elevation gain. Our total time was 12 hours, with 7 hours on the ascent, 4.5 hours on the descent, plus several substantial breaks. Photos from this trip can be seen here and here.