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Trip Report    

Basic Rock Climb - Ingalls Peak/South Ridge

Overnight in the headlamp basin area with amazing weather and crew

Craig Taylor Craig Taylor
June 11, 2019
  • Road suitable for all vehicles

  • Just a few snow patches on the traverse section to the pass with a slightly longer section of snow just up to the pass. Snow most of the way from the pass to the base of the climb. Parties leaving while we came in reported that crampons would be needed but with warming weather we carried traction but did not need it. No postholing and snow was great for kicking steps and plunge stepping on the way down. Route itself was snow free and moat at base of climb wasn't a problem. 

Did an overnight in headlamp basin giving us more time to check out the views and have a more relaxed time overall.

Took about 2.5 hours at a leisurely pace to arrive at our camping spot just on the other side of the pass -- we found a nice dirt patch with an official 'camp' logo affixed to the tree and a small pool of melt water nearby. Was expecting to camp on snow and was happy that the camp sites were already melted out. 

Nice views of our destination for tomorrow

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Fantastic views of Stuart as well from camp

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Woke up about 6AM and got ready for the climb, broke down a few tents, sleeping bags, etc..

Snow most of the way intermixed with a little rock here and there to the base from our camp. Lake is still frozen over. Snow was in great condition the whole way. Arrived at base of climb about 8AM

OnApproach1.jpgClimb was snow free from the base, sunny conditions, but very windy. Depending on where we were on the route it went from extremely windy to light wind and warm. Mostly windy tho :)

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We didn't see any other parties the whole day of the climb -- hikers included -- until we ran into a single person on the hike out, then just 3 more at the TH. Amazing day and so glad to have done it on a weekeday when the crowds are much less. Lots of people were leaving when we came in and it was reported that 6+ parties were on the climbing route that day. Fun to have spent the night in the basin and to have had this great climb to ourselves.

TH to Camp 2.5
Camp to Notch 1.5
Notch to Everyone on Summit 3
Summit to Notch 2 hours
Notch to Camp + Breakdown and then cars 4 hours