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Glacier Climb - Mount Adams/Mazama Glacier

Mount Adams -- Mazama Glacier attempt

Rodica Manole Rodica Manole
June 20, 2017
  • Road recommended for high clearance only

  • Started the approach from South Side TH, due to Bird Creek Meadows TH closure (for the whole year per rangers). Total snow coverage was found beyond first 1/2h mile of 183.  After the trail split (183 / Around the mountain trails), we snow scrambled E - NE all way to the moraine which started to melt out in places. Getting over/around it was straight forward most of the time on snow. I can foresee difficulties when it's melted out and completely loose.

Party of 6 attempted Mount Adams -- Mazama glacier (6/17-6/18) from South Side TH due to Bird Creek Meadows TH closure. The road is driveable all the way to the Cold Springs Campground, which is not fully melted out. We parked on the road, requiring us about 10 minutes road hike to the TH . No Volcano Passes were required for climbers (Mazama glacier being located in Yakima Indian Reservation). Getting to Sunrise camp required snow scrambling and route finding skills (~5 hours approach). Camp was completely melted out and we found one running water source about 300 yards below camp (climbers right). We got a glimpse of the glacier Saturday night from the Sunrise camp before the rain and crazy strong winds kicked in: it looked to be in good shape, with two major crevasses at about 9300 ft (?) to climbers right and a few minor ones lower, on climbers left. Due to precipitations (higher volume than predicted) and winds howling brutally the whole night (+50 mph?) we decided to play it safe, not move forward with the planned summit push, pack up our camp on Sunday AM and run away from unfriendly weather around 6:00 AM. By the time we got back at TH (10 AM), it was a nice, sunny, warm day. I will go back someday for this route -- in perfect weather conditions I would expect to be gorgeous up there and bonus no crowds.