Trip Report
Intermediate Alpine Climb - Le Petit Cheval/Spontaneity Arête
Fun, good rock and easy to protect. A great day with a great crew.
- Fri, Jul 28, 2017
- Intermediate Alpine Climb - Le Petit Cheval/Spontaneity Arête
- Le Petit Cheval/Spontaneity Arête
- Climbing
- Successful
- Road suitable for all vehicles
-
No snow on the route.
The anchor for the middle of three fixed lines we found was a small tree whose trunk was starting to split. We thought it safe enough but in retrospect we could have raised the rope to a higher larger tree.
The gully is loose but with a small tight party the section we travelled can be down climbed safely.
We climbed as a party of four in two teams using a 70m and a 60m rope. We closely followed the Super Topo route description. Crossing the creek was easy on logs. Approach trail is generally easy to follow. We simul-climbed pitch 3 and linked pitches 5 and 6 into a single pitch. On the descent we made 5 single rope rappels and down climbed half of pitch 3. We then rappeled into the gully and down climbed the gully to the base of the climb. On the descent from the climb we prussiked down the fixed lines. Car to car in about 11 hours.
The climb is fun and interesting. The only drawbacks are that the difficulty is not sustained and the lack of exposure/view on one side.