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Intermediate Alpine Climb - Vesper Peak/Ragged Edge

Great route in a beautiful location, but more crowded than the Tooth.

Takeo Kuraishi Takeo Kuraishi
August 06, 2024
  • Road suitable for all vehicles

  • Hiking trail mostly clear, but easy to get off trail going through the boulder fields. Don't take shortcut straight up the hill as the best trail zigzags through easier terrain. Once at the notch trail traversing the base of the face to the traditional start of Ragged Edge route will be obvious. Scramble route down from summit not well marked but easy to figure out.

Started from the parking lot at 5:40AM just before sunrise. Approach remained mostly in the shade. Met up at 8AM with fourth member who had camped at Lake Elan the night before - looked like a great spot to spend the night.
IMG_1178.jpg

Scrambled up toward the summit and then cutoff to the right toward cairns at the notch. The traverse ledge is clearly visible and we could already see at least three groups of climbers on the route ahead. Some had started very early after camping at the lake. As we reached the start for the traditional start to the Ragged Edge, a couple caught up with us, followed by a large group of six. At least another group showed up behind them later.

PC: Anil Kulkarni

[PC: Anil Kulkarni]

Pitch one is very long but relatively easy climb up to gear anchors on the ledge about 50 feet to the left of bolted anchors on the arete.

P_20240804_093836.jpg[PC: Anil Kulkarni]

Second pitch is a short traverse to the arete. Despite the crowded conditions, reporter was not paying attention to the climbers ahead and made the mistake of traversing out far right on pitch three and climbed up lichen covered face - protectable and low fifth class, but also obviously offroute. The real route stays on the arete with pitons for protection. Top of pitch three is a wide ledge, where we queued up for the route above to clear. We had at least three groups on that ledge during our climb.

Pitch four above goes through blocky sections to reach a small ledge. Pitch five goes up vertical cracks and horizontal ledge to end at a small stance with bolts. Look for a high bolt to protect before traversing right. PC: Anil Kulkarni

[PC: Anil Kulkarni]

Last pitch climbs the "ragged edge" to the summit, where surprised hikers greeted us. PC: Mire Kashikura[PC: Mire Kashikura]

Straightforward scramble took us back to the lake and then on trail back to the trailhead. 12 hours car to car for a great day out.