Trip Report
Sahale Peak/Quien Sabe Glacier
Fantastic trip in great conditions
- Mon, Jul 3, 2017
- Sahale Peak/Quien Sabe Glacier
- Climbing
- Successful
- Road suitable for all vehicles
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The Cascade River Road is now open all the way to the Cascade Pass Trailhead. Party of 6 left Boston Basin trailhead at 4AM. Encountered snow just above the Boston Basin campsites. We roped up in two teams with 30m glacier rope. Snow was firm to soft and made easy travel. The glacier has a few cracks but our upper longer route easily avoided them. The ridge is still partially covered with snow and the cornices were huge but we made a route well back from the crest on the snow sections. Snow was easy to climb and place pickets. Rock sections of the ridge were very loose and challenging to climb. We removed crampons to make the rock easier. Transitioning from snow to rock was a little difficult with some large deep moats. We placed pickets and a few nuts in a running belay to the summit block. We set up two trad anchors at the base of the block and belayed the leaders to the top and the simul-followers from the rappel anchor on the summit. We rappelled with the two 30m ropes which almost made it to the snow below leaving only a short easy downclimb. Sahale glacier was easy with only a few cracks at the edges. The trail down to Cascade Pass was intermittantly covered with snow and was a little hard to follow.
The trip was great with a really nice team of climbers. Two climbers got their graduating climb - congrats! The views along the way were some of the best I have had in the mountains.
Left trailhead at 4AM , summit at 3PM and down at the cars at 8PM