Mija Lee
The Mountaineers are excited to offer two water ice climbing courses in Ouray, Colorado. These courses, Toproping Water Ice and Intro to Leading Water Ice, are taught by experienced volunteer instructors who are passionate about sharing their knowledge and skills with fellow climbers. These courses are open to members from all branches.
Introduction to Water Ice Climbing
January 15-17, 2025
This course is designed for climbers interested in trying ice climbing. Over three days, participants will learn:
- Ice climbing gear and its use
- How to read ice
- Ice tool and crampon techniques
- Top rope systems for ice climbing, including how to extend water ice anchors
- Fundamental ice movement skills
A significant portion of this course focuses on developing efficient and effective movement on ice. Participants will learn:
- Proper body positioning, balance, and footwork on vertical ice
- Techniques for swinging ice tools with precision and minimal effort
- How to conserve energy and climb smoothly
By the end of the course, participants should be able to safely top rope moderate water ice (WI3) routes with confidence.
Introduction to Leading Water Ice
January 20-22, 2025
This course is for climbers who are comfortable top roping water ice and want to learn to lead. Attendees must have 10+ days on the ice. Preference is given to people who have also completed a water ice or alpine ice course. The three-day course covers:
- Placing ice screws and building anchors
- Lead climbing techniques
- Advanced movement skills for leading on ice
- Safety practices and risk management
The movement portion of this course builds on basic skills and introduces techniques specific to lead climbing on ice:
- Efficient movement while placing protection
- Techniques for climbing steep and overhanging ice
- Managing pumps and rests during lead climbs
- Adapting movement to varying ice conditions and features
The goal is to prepare climbers for the responsibilities and challenges of leading water ice climbs, with a strong emphasis on developing the movement skills necessary for safe and successful leads.
Both courses take place in the Ouray Ice Park in Colorado, which offers a variety of routes suitable for learning and practicing these crucial movement skills. Course dates do not include travel time.
Important Information
- Participants should have prior climbing experience and be in good physical condition.
- Basic cold weather skills and a good attitude are necessary.
- Group sizes are limited to maintain a good ratio of students to volunteer instructors, ensuring personalized attention for movement skill development.
- Climbing gear is not provided. A gear list will be sent upon registration.
An application is required for both courses that includes information on your experience and goals. Applications are due November 4, 2024. Acceptance will be communicated by November 25, 2024.
From some of our instructors:
"When I got into climbing mountains, it started with warm rock, sunny days, blue skies, and great weather. Pouring through books and routes I saw beautiful snow-capped summits and lines that involved mixed ice. Day dreaming, I knew that was where I wanted to continue to grow: replacing warm rock with cold ice, sunny days with clouds and snow, redefining my definition of great weather.
As I continued in the intermediate program, I joined a friend's trip to Hyalite canyon where I got my first taste of ice. The satisfaction from a great ice placement, the feeling of climbing something I never thought I would - drew me in more. Since then I’ve climbed some alpine ice routes in the Cascades and in the Rockies from Colorado to Alberta. There are so many great ice crags, and even more remote peaks that ice climbing has opened up as possibilities. Enabling my climbing journey to be year-round and not based on when weather is warm and dry for rock. The Norwegian’s coined it best: 'there's no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothing.'
Steve Swenson told me once that 'Ice climbing is the gateway to alpinism.' Once you’re confident on water ice, glacial ice becomes a styrofoam playground, making even what were challenging glacial routes easy. If you dream of climbing high peaks in Patagonia or the Himalayas, then encountering ice isn’t an 'if' but a 'when.' Summiting an ice route hits differently: you’re alone, the snow on top is untouched, the silence and views are astounding.
I like to describe Ouray as the ski resort of ice climbing. A well maintained crag, a warm breakfast, combining restaurants and hot springs at the end of a day make it a hard place to beat for getting your first ice sticks in. Every day is a great weather day in Ouray. Come join us this January and expand your climbing into a year-round journey."
-Jacob Wolniewicz
"When I joined the intermediate climbing course at the Seattle Mountaineers, I wanted to learn to lead trad climbs. I figured I wouldn’t even bother with the ice portion of the course. Ice climbing is crazy risky, way too cold and meant for tall, skinny, bearded men. I’m not sure where I got that stereotype from, but I’m none of those things, and I quickly learned that you don’t have to be any of those things to enjoy ice climbing.
That year, there was a cold snap and a friend suggested going out to a spot near Alpental called Kiddie Cliff. I went and fell in love with the movement, the color of the ice, and the satisfying thunk of a well-placed ice tool. Over the years, I learned that ice climbing is as much about technique and mental fortitude as it is about physical power. That, and sharp tools.
Sunlight on frozen waterfalls takes my breath away. I love being outdoors in general but being out on the ice is a whole other level of intensity and beauty. Ice climbing is all-encompassing. It is your world at that moment. It is your present.
Ouray is a fantastic place to learn to climb or lead. There are easy top rope anchors, farmed ice, and it's a quick walk to town. Join us this January."
-Mija Lee
