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Basic Alpine Climb - The Tooth/South Face

Approach was covered with snow from the talus field. The rock on the route was 100% dry and no snow. It was a great day for the climb.

Miho Urabe Miho Urabe
July 07, 2017
  • Road suitable for all vehicles

  • Approach: The main summer trail was mostly snow free. No crampon needed. The talus field was 100% covered with snow. No crampon needed. There were some thin snow bridges on the scramble part to get to the base of the climb.

    Rock: Rock was 100% snow free and 100% dry. Anchor stations were easy to find. The rappel stations were also easy to find.

We left the TH at 7:30 am and took a main summer trail to the talus field. Most part of the trail was snow free. Since we left a little bit late, snow on the trail was soft. We did not use crampons at all. The approach on the talus field was 100% covered with snow, but no crampons needed. The scramble to the base of the climb was covered with snow. There were some places that we had to be careful due to thin snow bridges during the scramble to the base. (to get south of Pineapple Pass)

Everyone climbed the rock with rock shoes, 4 pitches, nothing unexpected. Smooth climb. For rappel, we followed the rappel stations. The 3rd rappel from the summit was a little bit longer for 60 m rope. We set up handline to the next rappel station for safety.

From the base of the rock climbing part, we scrambled down from the way we came up due to the concerns of rope getting stuck in snow.

Overall, it was a great climb and everyone enjoyed.